I woke up at 4am Hawaii time, which is still sleeping in Seattle time. I cruised the internet and watched TV and ate my left over teri burger and cold ass fries. Also downed about 20 gallons of water. Did I mention that I'm living at the Marriot Resort and Spa on Waikiki! Only for about a week til they find me an apartment...I'll take it :)
By 9:30am I was out surfing!!! Wes' friend Ryan lives here and is now a surf instructor...yay for me. I'm not gonna lie, I was scared shitless. Once I got up on my first wave and biffed it really hard, it was all good. I love it and want to do it all time! I did jam my toe on some coral trying to get back on the board...I guess that's not too shabby for living in paradiso :) I am now cruising craigslist for a board!
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